In the Kitchen with Executive Sous Chef Terence Zubieta from NoMI Kitchen
The Chicago restaurant world is getting back in action, and welcoming more and more diners in with open arms. That includes the culinary team at the Park Hyatt Chicago hotel. This is the team that creates the delicious menus and stunning dining experiences at NoMI Kitchen, Garden and Lounge, and they can’t wait to welcome people back to their tables. Executive Sous Chef Terence Zubieta and the rest of the NoMI team have been working hard to recreate the amazing meals our city has come to expect from this high-end destination, but also keep their diners as safe as possible. We talked to Zubieta about what to expect from the newly re-opened NoMI restaurants, and what he loves on their menu right now…
What were some of your earliest food memories and influences?
Growing up in the Philippines I always loved being in the kitchen with my grandmother when she was cooking. We had a wood fired stove/oven so the smell and sound of fire, the food cooking, the sight of my grandmother effortlessly moving in the kitchen made a great and lasting impression on me. The weekly trips to our town’s open air market with all the fresh ingredients from the surrounding farms was always a treat for me as well.
How did your early kitchen experience lead you to NoMI?
During my last year in culinary school I was lucky enough to land an internship at what was known then as The Elysian Hotel (now the Waldorf Astoria). There I worked with chef's who had spent some time here at NoMI Kitchen at some point. It’s come full circle for me now that I’m here at NoMI, too!
What do you want people to experience when they dine with you?
The elegance of simplicity and good food that’s uncomplicated. Great ingredients and classic techniques with modern touches here and there.
How is this experience different now in the world of COVID 19?
Covid has definitely turned everything upside down, in the restaurant world especially. Fine dining has always been about guest interaction and experience. Servers, sommeliers, managers, and chefs all at some point would “touch” the table literally and figuratively. Now it’s all about no-contact and distance; the complete opposite of what the dining experience was traditionally built on.
Between the Kitchen and the Garden, and even the overall hotel experience, how is NoMI unique in the world of dining?
NoMI has always been, and still is, a gem in the Chicago dining scene. At NoMI Kitchen you have modern French cuisine, with classic fine dining environment. The NoMI Lounge is where you can have amazing cocktails and spirits. And then the NoMI Garden, is all about open-air al fresco vibrancy and fun. Three choices for whatever mood you’re in, all in one place! We also have the best sushi on the Magnificent Mile! There is a little bit of everything, but very distinct in each outlet. With our dining areas located high above the commotion of the city, you feel almost transported to an oasis where you can enjoy those simple moments, and still be in the middle of it all.
Tell us how you work with local farms and companies to create your menu?
We like to have a connection and a story with what we have on the menu. We always try to source locally as much as possible. We also support small local farms and use seasonal ingredients. It’s a luxury nowadays to know where your food came from, let alone actually talk to the people that grew that food.
What are some of your favorite menu items right now?
The Tarte Flambé is definitely at the top of the list. It’s simple and elegant, a traditional Alsatian style flatbread made with Gruyere cheese, house-cured bacon, red onions, and a fromage blanc sauce. Our Loch Duart Grilled Salmon is up there too (below)! Grilled salmon with a gribiche sauce is simple but perfect. There’s a richness with the sauce that compliments the salmon, which makes for a nice balance.
And how does the beverage menu compliment this?
Our Part & Parcel cocktail with Titos vodka and elderflower liqueur or a nice glass of rosé out in the Garden is perfect in the Chicago summer. The NoMI Old Fashioned in the Lounge is also never a bad choice.
How do you work with your team to make sure the diners' experience is phenomenal every time they visit you?
As a chef, I spend most of my days here at NoMI, and I do a little bit of everything here. From ordering and menu creation, to helping prepare menu items, helping on the line when needed, expediting during busy meal periods, and constantly communicating with the front of the house. I get to see and touch almost every aspect of the kitchen operation to make sure our diners are truly getting the NoMI experience.
What is your favorite part of your job?
Being able to create and seeing diners enjoy the end result. The smiles that come from eating good food don’t lie!
Who are some other chefs you admire in the Chicago food world?
Thai Dang from Hai Sous for sure! He was my Chef de Cuisine when I was at the Elysian/Waldorf. He was one of the first chefs to really show me my own potential. I really felt like he believed in my talents and what I could achieve. Charlie Trotter as well, because of the legacy that he left in the city of Chicago. There isn’t one fine dining kitchen in Chicago that has not had a Charlie Trotter alumni or someone that has worked with somebody from the Trotter lineage at some point.
What do you have coming up at NoMI that people can look forward to?
The re-opening of the NoMI Kitchen dining room! We’ll have a brand new menu and a dining space with the best views on the Mag Mile is waiting for everyone to come back!!
What are you most looking forward to for the remainder of summer in Chicago?
I love the outdoors, so more hiking, fishing, beach trips, and backyard barbecues.
Interview by Kaleigh Glaza | Market Editor